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Machrie, Scotland |
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Machrie Hotel & Golf Links
Port Ellen
Isle of Islay
PA42 7AT
Scotland |  | Willie Campbell, Donald Steel |  | None |
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Machrie is a wonderfully nostalgic links course located on the beautiful Hebridean island of Islay, famous for its distilleries and the fabulous rich and “peaty” single malt whisky such as Laphroaig and Bruichladdich.
Do not confuse this course with the 9-hole Machrie Bay on the Isle of Arran.
This is the remotest of the remote links courses, laid out in 1891 by Willie Campbell. Donald Steel was brought in to modify Machrie in the late 1970s. “For years, the land beyond the first green was part of a layout that included a famous hole named Mount Zion, an area not for sale when new owners wanted to buy a full 18 holes.” Wrote Donald Steel in his book Classic Golf Links of Great Britain & Ireland. “New boundaries were erected and new land taken in to the north where a small river runs into the sea. It served to make Machrie more complete, more modern and more challenging. This fresh face of Machrie begins with the par five 2nd which doglegs sharply to follow the path of a fast-flowing stream that later forms one flank of a tight entrance to the green.” Amazingly, Steel has retained much of the charm and surprise of Campbell’s original design. In fact, unless you were familiar with the old Machrie, you'd never identify Steel's changes.
In 1901, James Braid overcame his well-grounded horror of the sea to compete in the Islay Open. The other two members of the “Great Triumvirate”, John H Taylor and Harry Vardon, were also there, attracted by £100, the highest prize money of that time. At the last hole, Braid had a putt to share the prize money with Taylor. According to a report in The Scotsman, Braid’s putt was deflected from “dropping” in the hole by a piece of sheep dung!
The Machrie is laid out across magnificent terrain, dominated by varied and imposing sand dunes. On a clear day, the views across Laggan Bay from the elevated parts of the course are simply breathtaking.
The most surprising aspect of the layout is that the greens are in all sorts of locations – some are raised and some are in sunken punchbowls. The amazing position of greens has virtually negated the need for bunkers and there are very few sand traps here at the Machrie. The sum of this variation makes for an enjoyable, challenging and interesting round of golf. If you do get the chance, take the opportunity to play the course more than once.
Pray for the weather to be kind. Although Islay is in the Gulf Stream, the weather can be horrible and, on occasions, the course can quickly become totally unplayable. When the rain is falling sideways, we recommend a large single malt whisky next to a warming peat fire, or a trip to the famous Bowmore distillery. | |
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If the above course review article is not accurate, let us know by clicking here |
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 |  | | Average Reviewers Score: |   | | | When you play this course you cant help but have a feeling of nostalgia and romance. My playing partners and I certainly felt this, or maybe it was the Lagavulin and isaly ale!
Many will not enjoy the Massive dunes that you need carry off the tee and also when hitting approach shots. An element of chance/luck is involved with these blind shots, however, it adds to the fun and certainly tests your technique.
Whilst the setting, atmosphere and history cannot be beaten the course itself is a mixed bag. The first 3 holes were a disappointment and had me worried that most reviews were purely from a nostalgic perspective rather than a golfing one. After that the course comes into its own and has some wonderful holes. 6,7,8, 11,13,14 and 15 are excellent. A couple of bland par 3's and a average closing stretch the only let downs.
I played the course on a relatively calm sunny spring day for £35 and easily played to my handicap. On a windy day or for someone who struggles from the tee I can imagine the course would be fairly brutal!
The hotel and cottages are closed indefinitely due to a water supply problem and in any case they looked run down and in need of major investment. I was quite surprised with how poor they looked after reading some of the comments on here.
3 of the greens were damaged due to sea water encroaching on the course, however, should be fine for May. The course itself is conditioned well enough just don't expect too much. The greens (bar the damaged ones) were firm, true and consistent.
A good course with a number of excellent holes in a setting/location that is hard to match.
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| 05 April 2012
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| Response: | | | Ileach | 16 May 2012 | | I am surprised at this review. I agree that holes 1, 3 and 10 are bland, but 2 is a fine hole, especially from the back tee ... but probably not a par 5 for a long hitter. 12 is a magnificent, natural, unadorned par 3 on the peak of a crowned hill. 16, 17 and 18 are a terrific finish, albeit all blind approaches. And 17 is unique - I personally dislike it, but it's definitely not "average". Incidentally, the fate of 10, by far the weakest hole on the course, is most unfortunate, because it has a lovely, usually racing, burn off to its left that would a great hazard if the green could be placed behind it. This would transform the hole into a "stunna" of perhaps 200 yards maximum, with plenty of room for forward tees., but I'm told the owner of that adjacent property is not interested in making the necessary land available to the course. The writer is absolutely correct about the hotel buildings ... they have been decrepit for a number of years (there are many issues in addition to the water) and one hopes that the new owners can get it all sorted out and return the Hotel to its former glory (although that was before I was born, and that wasn't yesterday!). I wish them the best of luck, and trust they can succeed. | | | mike | 19 September 2012 | | Playing it on Saturday - cant wait these reviews have realy whetted my appetite - Sunday Mach Dunes - Monday Machrihanish I must have done something good ! | | | The Laddie | 03 October 2012 | | Another summer spent on Islay, playing The Machrie perhaps 20 times. It remains a wonderful experience, and although the facilities are extremely limited due to the hotel's closure, the course is in great shape, fully recovered from the winter damage mentioned in the above comment. In fact it's much more "playable" than it ever has been in my memory. The new owners have funded the purchase of modern maintenance equipment, which has permitted the staff to cut back quite substantially the rough so that the fairways are much wider than they used to be. For all but the sadists among us that is a great step forward, because the one criticism of The Machrie that mattered was that the fairways were too narrow and the rough almost inpenetrable, resulting in far too much time spent looking for, and not finding, balls that really weren't all that much off line. Consequently play could be slow. There are also changes in process to re-align the second hole, and completely re-route the tenth and eleventh holes, which will add further to the course's attraction. And recent news is that it looks like the water problems can be resolved, and when that is done, the way is clear to renovate the hotel. Probably 2 or 3 years work, but it all augurs well for this iconic course. Incidentally: why is it rated #2 in A&B? It's streets better than Machrahanish. |
| | | This course epitomises Scottish golf at it's best.
Wonderful vistas, friendly people, whisky and wind!
If you want to experience all the best of Scotland in one
place go to the Machrie and Islay.
John |
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| 05 January 2011
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| I am an old man now and where I live the summer sun stings and the warm wet wind drains energy as blotting paper draws ink. I am hot, sticky and tired. The dog days draw close. I shall doze. No! I will not let this listless malaise consume me. It is time. Time to pack my bag. Time to go to Islay. The greenness. The stiff cool breeze; maybe rain, but do I care? Or even a glorious sun, high in the infinite sky, but bereft of tropical sear. The links beckon come hither. The Machrie. My Innisfree. Is there another golf course on this planet that offers you, if you wish to partake, such remoteness, such solitude, such a magical aura, such a sense of the insignificance of man in the scope of the universe? Dornoch, perhaps, wonderful, but possibly a little too pretty? a little cramped in comparison? A little yellow at times? Bandon Dunes? Awe-inspiring, but unquestionably placed there by man. The Machrie persuades us that it fell to earth, untouched by hand: such is its naturalness, its appropriateness. What a course to play.
The ingénue first and tenth holes gently and with little drama seduce you into the front and back nines, coaxing you into two sequences of natural golf holes, each carving pathways of immaculate links turf through deeply grassed dunes to beautifully presented greens. There are few bunkers, but each one is exactly where you wouldn’t want it to be. From a golfing perspective the progressions from the 4th to the 9th and from the 11th to the 18th are breathtaking; indeed the latter is simply brilliant. The views from almost every vantage point on the course across the island’s sea lochs and hills are stunning and unforgettable at all times; on a fine day they are sublime. Now the golfer who is not given to raising his eyes from his tee might grumble that the course is quite short, that he wasn’t able to capitalise on his length, that he lost his ball every time it went in the rough, and that there were a lot of blind shots (far too many I hear him say). All true. The Machrie would never be built today. But bear in mind that it wasn’t built at all; it’s been teased out of the existing land, great artists seeing the shapes that lay buried in the wild grasses.
Nostalgia plays its part, as at my years it must. In a warm glow I see the friends of my youth, many already gone, as we battled against each other and a raging gale, frozen and soaked to the skin; at other times in high June sunshine we managed four rounds in a day … the course was a little less demanding to walk back then. The long strolls(!) with the girls on the beach at Laggan Bay – jump over the fence at 3, 8 or 9 now – when my parents happily believed I was on the course perfecting my game. I was in a way. Golden recollections. Long, long ago. And so on to university, responsibility and real life. I was well prepared for the last. The Machrie had taught me to take the bad breaks with equanimity, the good ones with quiet pleasure, and to treat all mankind as equals, as they are, and do, at The Machrie. The Machrie. I shall arise and go now. |
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| 03 June 2010
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| Response: | | | mppj | 03 June 2010 | | Bravo my friend,bravo.A fantastic review | | | dan | 10 June 2010 | | I smiled all the way through your review, thank you for your redolent look back - "Im Abendrot" should have been playing in the background ! I have played The Machrie just the once but can't wait to go back, it is to date my singularly perfect golfing experience. |
| | | Ah the Machrie… I yearned to play here since the course was first ranked in 2000. After nine years waiting and a colourful pilgrimage from the south west of England, which culminated in a rather protracted ferry crossing, we finally arrived on the Hebridean island of Islay. Was it worth the effort? Oh yes it was and it’s a pilgrimage that I thoroughly recommend. The course will not appeal to everyone because there are many blind drives, some of which feature fearsome, long and high carries over towering dunes, additionally there are numerous blind approach shots which many will not like. I lost my fair share of balls at the Machrie, if you can’t see where your ball lands in this terrain then you are in the lap of the gods. Keeping the ball in play here is easier said than done. Having said all of this, there is something very special about the land and it has a humbling, calming aura which made me feel good from within. Most designers would never consider trying to replicate the Machrie, as it goes totally against the modern grain, but somehow it works perfectly here on Islay and purist architect David McLay Kidd has created Machrihanish Dunes back on the mainland which competes with the Machrie in the blind-shot stakes. When I played the trio of Mach courses on a recent trip, I found the Machrie to be the best conditioned and am hard pressed to decide which of the three courses I prefer. If you are travelling to this remote outpost I suggest you take your time and play them all. |
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| 07 November 2009
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| Response: | | | dan | 19 March 2010 | | Funnily enough, my 6 ball review further down was just before playing Machrihanish Dunes - we moved from Islay to Arran so also played Shiskine which is in the same league of jaw droppingly scenic natural, quirky links golf. Mach Dunes is like a newer, longer Machrie. Can't be too fulsome in my praise for both of them, golf in Scotland is in safe hands ! Whether by island hopper or ferry, The Machrie and Mach Dunes may be somewhat inaccessible but you will wonder why you made a fuss once you have played them. Magical. |
| | | My Day at the Machrie can best be described by re-arranging these words into a well known saying. Banjo, cow’s arse, couldnae and hit. The King of Ireland certainly came down to earth with more bumps than Humpty Dumpty’s napper. And yet, despite this and, a score which crept into 3 figures, I adored absolutely everything about this far flung beauty. If you don’t like blind shots or quirkiness then perhaps this is not the place for you but I urge you to give it a try for if ever there is a must play course it is this one. Embrace the bind drives over the taunting marker posts. Accommodate the ever changing wind and the hungry rough. Accept more capricious bounces than you can shake a stick at and simply rejoice in the complete Machrie experience. You will love it. The start may seem undrstated, perhaps it is in comparison to what lies ahead, but there are still dangers to overcome. Watch out for the wee sneaky bunker just over the brow of the hill at the first and don’t underestimate the water at the under-rated second. From the 3rd the course shows its true colours so buckle up and enjoy the ride because, with the exception of the prosaic 10th, every other hole falls into the great, super or marvellous categories (copyright Jim Bowen) Holes 6 -9 inclusive are absolute show-stoppers. With 12, (a very difficult long par 3, especially in the wind), 13 and the brilliant 17th the pick of the back 9 but, as I have stated previously there is not a bad hole on the course. It is here that I feel that I must enter The Machrie v Machrihanish debate. Well, I think that a swap in places in our chart would be a more accurate reflection of their worth The Machrie doesn’t have Machrihanish’s celebrity but I think that it has more merit over 18 holes. But, it is all about opinions and these can be discussed at length afterwards with the fantastic locals, who can’t do enough for you, over a plethora of the Island’s special malts. MPPJ |
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| 30 October 2009
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|  I returned to play the Machrie six years after I'd first played it and despite really enjoying my round the time before, it was even better than I'd imagined it would be second time around! Granted, the weather was far kinder than the rain soaked-day I had endured in 2003 (which allowed a decent score to be made in benign conditions) but the feel of the place is just something that cannot be put into words properly and any attempt at describing the almost religious experience of playing here on Islay will never do the course full justice.
How Machrie does not make it into the Top 20 of course listings for Scotland defies belief because if it was on the mainland, the many golfers that would play it would rate it as they do Cruden Bay, for instance, rightly elevating its position but then, exposed to the golfing masses, would it retain the same charm that it undoubtedly possesses? Links lovers should make the pilgrimage to play here at least once and follow in the footsteps of the golfing greats from yesteryear. That Willie Campbell knew a thing or two about designing great golf courses, you know… Jim McCann |
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| 29 October 2009
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| | I played the course under very poor conditions (gale force rainstorm; numerous slow four-balls ahead of me in a local competition) - and still loved it. The many blind shots off the tee and approaching greens make this a course you need to play several times to appreciate. Course maintenance was very good and the greens were terrific. Not the easiest place to get to, but the staff is welcoming in its own quirky way. Highly recommended for all links golf fans - and essential for true afficianados of traditional Scottish golf. As a side note, the starter shack appears to be an unofficial shrine to busty models from the UK men's magazine "Nuts". |
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| 14 October 2009
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| | Wow, what a course !
We played The Machrie this afternoon in a 2/3 club wind, fortunately in blustery sunshine, so the views across the bay, of the moors and the Paps of Jura were gobsmacking.
The hotel is a little tired, but the staff were very friendly and the course itself was very well presented.
It has to be one of the best layouts I have ever played - 1 and 2 ease you into the game but it is only in retrospect compared to the later holes that you feel that they were straightforward .
Coming off the course, there was only one weak hole (the short par 3 10th) and so many absolute crackers, any one of which would be another course's signature hole.
Some of the approaches that you have to hit are out of this world, and once you get to the green the putting can be a terrific challenge but fair.
Good value for the £55 we paid.
Ref Cedric and others questioning the assertion of how fantastic The Machrie is, personally I have played 10 out of the 20 courses in Scotland ranked above it and cannot honestly argue that any, albeit how fantastic they are, beat it. It is a wonderful course and simply has to be played.
If you don't like blind shots, why not ? maybe move to Florida ... = ) |
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| 19 September 2009
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| Response: | | | Cedric | 20 September 2009 | | Sounds like I really need to pay myself a trip to the Islands!!! | | | Johnson | 21 September 2009 | | Cedric, I know you have played a lot of the great courses but I am positive you would love this course and it would be worth your time. The whole setting is perfect, the 1st tee is just behind the hotel, the holes are some of the best you will find(#10 excluded) and after the round, the bar is a great place so sit back and enjoy a nice beer. The staff are great. Make sure you spend 2 days at least, there are some blind shots so the 2nd day you will have a better idea how to play it. | | | dan | 03 September 2011 | | I am now up to 14 of the 23 higher rated courses in Scotland and I still can't top my Machrie experience. How is the Machrie not higher yet, and actually going down ? |
| | | This may be the most under-rated course on this site. If you are looking for a place to go ona pilgrimage to golf, go here. Makes Macrihanish look like a dog track (which it is'nt, its an epic course) |
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| 29 August 2009
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| | This is really one for the purist. And I am pure at heart. I love The Machrie. Whatever I feel for Machrihanish (which is equally remote, geographically not far from here and sounds a bit the same so therefore I can go around making these comparisons) is probably instinctive (the pounding sea and the crazy fairways) whereas what I feel for The Machrie is more intellectual (the many blind shots don’t appeal to my nature but when I think of the way golf was once played around these dunes I appreciate what happens here). Basically, in the days before zip grooves the toughest shots were ones over obstacles to hidden greens. The Machrie is so far flung that nobody forced them to flatten those obstacles and move on. It’s just very very cool. The condition is excellent too. Swallow your old Scottish golf books and go play it. (I loved the second hole here. No-one ever really talks about that. I also loved the par 3 twelfth, New Mount Zion. Nobody ever talks about that either. They all talk about the seventh, Scot’s Maiden. You’ve got to love it too. The first at Macrihanish Dunes is in a small way a copy of that hole.) Get down here in the winter and the place is empty. Where is everyone you might ask? America and Canada and Australia is the answer. Actually, apparently most of the Islay islanders headed for The Carolinas when the potato famine struck. The obviously took a wee bit of the gowf with them because they were probably playing a bit of it round about here back then. Hey, there are some amazing sites on Islay which could be turned into the greatest golf course the world would ever know… ANGLOSCOT |
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| 19 August 2009
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| | Playing Machrie is like stepping back in time. The remoteness and isolation adds to the charm. Another positive aspect is the egalitarian nature of the golf. Everyone is welcome, including blue collar and working class. |
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| 22 April 2009
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| | Comfortably the best golf course in the UK!
It is difficult to get to, the hotel is a bit dated and there is only one course on the island.
Was it worth the trip...you should definately visit this place.
Blind shots, perfect greens natural beyond anything possible on the mainland and the best challenge in golf. |
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| 22 April 2009
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| Response: | | | Cedric | 22 April 2009 | | The best course in the UK??? I haven't played it but such an affirmation sounds a little strange. Do you mean the best you have played? Clearly, if this was the best course in the UK, everybody would know about it...Maybe (surely) a very good course but I doubt it is the best ever. | | | Tim | 23 April 2009 | | Cedric, while his claim may sound a little far fetched that The Machrie is the best, it is not that far off. I have been fortunate to play 35 links courses in Ireland/Scotland and my dad is upto about 75 and we both believe that The Machrie should rate very near the top. It is not well known due to its location but it was 2 of the best days we had in Scotland and the 2nd day was horrible weather but you couldnt keep us off the course. Worth the travel and stay a couple of days. | | | Shaun | 28 April 2009 | | I must side with Cedric here. Whilst the Machrie was in excellent condition and in a unique location it would probably not feature in my personal top 100, too many blind shots. | | | Kem | 13 May 2009 | | My opinion is somewhere in between. Having played Carnoustie, Dornoch, Machrihanish, Deal in England and The Machrie, I have only limited links experience but definitely on some good courses. In my opinion the Machrie is not as good a layout as Carnoustie or Dornoch, but a more enjoyable experience given the remoteness and the feeling that you have stepped back in time. (and don't forget the 7 single malt distellaries on Islay!) |
| | | i think that this is my favourite course by quite a way and i have played other very good courses such as Walton Heath or Royal St. George's, but this is definately the best. it is not an easy course by any means especially when the wind blows. the greens are emaculate, the fairways are beautiful, and as well of this the amount of blind shots is wonderful my favourite hole is probably the seventeenth as the approach shot is over a large mound into a bowl shape green i would recommend this course to any golfer who likes a challenge which is not expensive, and wants a guarenteed good course |
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| 08 June 2008
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| | If you are going to go to the trouble of playing Machrie, plan on at least two days to really enjoy it. I played it with my father in May 07 and it was well worth the travel time. We checked into the hotel just as dinner was finishing and they told us they would keep the kitchen open for us. After dinner, the owner realized that we were 2 to a room and gave us each our own room, this was unrequested and we were only charged for a single room(the hotel was not full). The course was beyong expectations, these were some of the best holes we have played to date. As many of the reviews have stated, there was not a weak hole on the course and some of the approach shots were the best I have ever had the pleasure to play. The staff at the hotel is suberb. My dad and me enjoyed grabbing a 7 iron after dinner and going out and playing as many holes as we felt like in the setting sun. Life doesnt get much better than that. The 1st tee is mere steps away from the hotel so you can have a nice breakfast, go to your room to freshen up and then take a leisurely stroll to the 1st tee. It reminded me of staying at the Golf Hotel at Royal Dornoch. The pub in the hotel is great and enjoyed hoisting more than a few beers with the bartender and then played 18 with him the next day. I have forgotten his name and alos the name of one of the waiters who treated us like family while we were there. For my money, it is better than Machrihanish (which is getting alot of press these days). The whole experience(ferry, hotel, staff, location and golf) is probably the best that I have come across in all of my links golf travels. I have spent 2 months over 5 years playing in Ireland/Scotland and this was the best 2 days by far. And it howled on the second day and was still a joy. |
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| 24 May 2008
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| | A magic setting in the Inner Hebrides. A hidden gem in immaculate condition. A challenge to golfers of all standards. I never tire playing the Machrie links when I get the opportunity. |
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| 25 September 2007
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| | Machrie is possibly my favourite course in the whole world. It is a wonderfully balanced layout, with no weak holes, and is maintained beautifully. The last six holes may be the best, most scenic, and possibly the toughest finishing stretch of links holes anywhere, with the added bonus of having the well appointed hotel and a warm welcome waiting for you just off the 18th green. If you haven`t been there, I suggest you make the considerable effort immediately- your links education will not be complete until you`ve played this masterpiece. Leave your misconceptions that the course will be easy and untidy just because it is on an island behind you- Machrie is a championship quality links traditionally maintained with fescue dominated greens and tight cut surfaces that allow you the opportunity to play proper seaside golf shots. I can`t speak highly of the place. |
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| 29 August 2007
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| | The Machrie is mystical, magnificent and mad. The most fun I have ever had playing golf. Blind tee shot, blind approach shots, everything but blind putts! Too many great holes to mention, but the 7th is probably my favourite. Get on the ferry and stay over on Islay a few days, and when you don't play golf, go to any or all of the seven distilleries. Just watch out, the roads on Islay can get very narrow! Kem Westdyk, South Africa |
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| 05 October 2006
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| | My Dad and I played The Machrie the day after playing Machrihanish and unfortunately it did not compare favourably. There are a lot of blind approach shots and drives, the farways are good but not classic links and the greens are good but not great. It wasn't clear where to get changed and as a result the porch of the hotel was jammed with shoes, clubs and golfers changing shoes. My advice would be to save the ferry fare, taxi fare and time to get there and play Machrihanish twice. |
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| 12 July 2006
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| Response: | | | Nick | 14 May 2009 | | I really cannot understand how you can think the fairways are not classic links? Hard, fast and full of undulations is my definition and the Machrie does not disappoint! The blind shots simply add to the character of what is simply a majestic golf course. |
| | | Flew for the day with a mate from Glasgow in March 2004. Were collected and dropped back off at the airport by hotel staff who could not have been more helpful during our day out. Unfortunately, the rain belted down all day (and we were the only two on the course) but we battled against the elements to savour a fantastic old fashioned golf course which has many elements of Cruden Bay and Prestwick in its layout (and if you liked playing either of those you will love playing the Machrie). Blind shots galore, imaginative shots being called for at almost every hole, this is uncomplicated golf from a bygone era when it was FUN to play! Putting surfaces are not the biggest so your approach will have to be pretty accurate if you are going to score well. Even then, the wind will make sure you have a lot to do to get close to the pins. Only weak hole was the nondescript par 3 10th. The lunch at the hotel was excellent - they have a wonderful menu with many traditional Scottish items on it. All washed down with a dram or two of their famed Islay malt whisky- heaven! If you can afford to fly to both, play here one day, back to Glasgow overnight then play Machrihanish next day - what a double delight. James McCann. |
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| 19 January 2005
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| | It’s hard to put into words the Machrie experience. The island is magical and the people are so courteous and genuinely friendly. We stayed at the hotel for two days and had the time of our lives. As for the course, you need to play it more than once because there are blind shots aplenty, but if you can stay on the line of the marker posts, you won’t go far wrong. This is a traditional, old-fashioned links with silky smooth greens. Holes 7, 8 & 9, which run alongside Laggan Bay, are tremendous. But for me, the most important facet of the Machrie is that the golf is fun with a capital F. Without doubt it’s a must-play course and if you like single malts as well as golf, you could easily be in your perfect heaven. |
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| 30 December 2004
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| | I was the only player on the Course in a gale, and began by wondering how many balls I might need.
In the event, I managed quite well, and enjoyed the solitude, and isolation.
Not a long course but well worth a visit, staying at the excellent hotel, cuisine, drinks et al.
A work colleague, Dick Greenwood, visits each year with friends, and never tires of the experience. |
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| 27 May 2004
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